Escape the Tourist Trail

Let’s be honest: Tokyo can feel overwhelmingly crowded, with visitors everywhere eagerly snagging the latest mochi treats. So, when planning a recent trip to Japan, I had one essential requirement: a peaceful retreat away from the throngs of tourists.

Welcome to KAI Akiu

That quest led us to KAI Akiu, a serene haven nestled amidst nature. The lobby welcomes you with soothing moss-green carpets and warm blonde wood, harmonizing beautifully with the surrounding mountains. Operated by the luxury hotelier Hoshinoya, KAI Akiu transcends the typical ryokan experience, offering a spacious retreat that beautifully merges traditional Japanese aesthetics with modern comforts.

Here, you'll find suites adorned with tatami mats and shoji doors, but sleep on plush mattresses and enjoy bathrooms equipped with contemporary amenities.

A Rich History

This historic hot spring town, just 90 minutes from Tokyo by train, was once a favored escape for feudal lords looking to rejuvenate after battles. Today, Akiu invites visitors to unwind in soft cotton loungewear, or samue, allowing guests to shed the stresses of daily life and simply enjoy their stay.

Culinary Delights

One of the highlights of ryokan living is the exquisite kaiseki dining experience. Unlike traditional ryokans where meals are served in-room, KAI Akiu features a communal dining space where guests can savor their meals in a refined atmosphere. Our dinner consisted of an incredible array of seasonal dishes, including oxtail rillette, crab with yam cake, and donabe rice soaked in rich oxtail soup, artfully presented on elegant lacquered trays.

Relaxation in Nature

In our expansive guest room, we delighted in simply gazing out at the river from a plush cobalt sofa. When we managed to peel ourselves away from the vista, we alternated between the indoor and outdoor onsen baths, both fed by the region’s ancient sodium chloride springs, famed for their skin-softening properties.

From Mountains to Coast: KAI Anjin Awaits

A mere hundred minutes from Tokyo in the opposite direction lies the coastal town of Ito. If Akiu embodies a serene retreat with earthy tones, Ito presents impossibly blue skies and the refreshing scent of salty sea air. KAI Anjin, designed to pay homage to the town’s maritime history, resides in a sleek building reminiscent of a ship.

Before its grand opening in 2017, renowned Tokyo design studio Super Potato gave a nod to Ito’s rich history, incorporating subtle maritime elements into the stylish interiors, including a spacious deck inspired by Japan’s first Western ship.

Elegant Accommodations

The hotel boasts 45 uniquely designed suites offering breathtaking views of the ocean. With their dark wood floors and cozy furnishings, each room embraced a soft, inviting atmosphere.

Indulge in the Soaking Experience

With more than 700 hot springs dotting the Izu Peninsula, we seized the chance to soak in the soothing waters of KAI Anjin's eighth-floor onsen, all while soaking up mesmerizing views of the Pacific. This picturesque experience truly redefined relaxation.

Cultural and Culinary Excursions

Guests at KAI Anjin can engage with the local culture, from enjoying presentations on William Adams’ storied past to exploring the historic town center that showcases Ito’s traditional wooden architecture. For a deeper dive into history, Totaikan, a preserved former ryokan, serves as a public museum offering insights into Adams' legacy.

Culinary Creations with a Twist

Dining at KAI Anjin is a feast for the senses, combining traditional Japanese flavors with a playful nod to Adams’ English heritage. Our first night featured a hearty seafood bouillabaisse, followed by dishes that included stuffed scallops and a unique black sesame tiramisu.

Embracing Modern Comforts

While English-speaking staff might not be prevalent at KAI properties, we were fortunate to have a delightful English speaker to guide us through meals and cultural rituals, enhancing our experience.

As more young Japanese opt for international travel, resorts like KAI Akiu and KAI Anjin aim to attract this burgeoning audience by integrating modern touches like WiFi and record players.

Find Your Peace

For city dwellers like us, these retreats offer a rare chance to embrace stillness and tranquility. They serve as gentle reminders that true luxury lies in the simple moments, whether gazing at a mountain landscape or feeling the rhythm of the ocean waves.