Unveiling the Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon: A New Era in Timekeeping
2025-01-03
Author: John Tan
Can you believe it’s already 2025? As we step into this new year, Longines is making a bold statement by embracing the growing trend of forged carbon, a material that’s here to revolutionize watchmaking. The success of watches like the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Carbon last year demonstrated a rising demand for this innovative material, leading Longines to take the plunge with their latest release: the Ultra-Chron Carbon.
Reviving a classic, the Ultra-Chron is a nod to its vintage roots, initially reintroduced in 2022 with a fresh, high-frequency movement while retaining the essence of its predecessor’s design. This latest iteration comes in a substantial 43mm diameter case and a thickness of 14mm, offering a bold wrist presence.
Crafted from forged carbon, the case represents the pinnacle of modern horology. The unique process involves heating carbon fibers and epoxy resin in a mold, producing a lightweight yet sturdy case. Each watch showcases a distinct appearance due to the randomness of carbon fiber patterns, weighing in at an astonishingly light 80 grams, significantly less than its steel equivalent at 172 grams.
The watch features a fixed titanium bezel adorned with an aluminum insert that marks ten-minute intervals, replacing the rotating bezel often favored in dive watches. This design choice lends the Ultra-Chron Carbon a sophisticated, understated look that’s fully matte. The anthracite dial is enhanced by sandblasting, and further accents include grey PVD-coated hands that blend seamlessly into the design while confirming the watch's robust water resistance of up to 300 meters.
Powering this timepiece is the innovative caliber L.836.6, a high-beat movement exclusive to Longines, ticking at 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour). This technology enhances its ability to resist shocks and improves its precision, setting it apart from traditional movements. With modern features such as a silicon balance spring and an antimagnetic escapement, this watch is as reliable as it is stylish.
Longines is ensuring the Ultra-Chron Carbon is a certified chronometer through TIMELAB, an esteemed testing facility based in Geneva. Here, the watch undergoes a rigorous 15-day assessment that examines temperature variations and overall performance, thereby attesting to its exceptional craftsmanship.
The Ultra-Chron Carbon comes fitted with a durable 22mm black fabric strap and a titanium buckle, retailing at $4,900. Given the integration of carbon into one of Longines' most vintage-inspired models, this watch strikes a compelling balance between tradition and modernity.
While the design appeals to a broad audience, its significant size may be daunting for some. Enthusiasts have noted the shorter lugs—characteristic of the cushion case—could aid in making it more wearable. However, the overall mass might still pose a challenge for those with slimmer wrists. The pressing question remains whether the relative lightness of the carbon case can offset its bulkiness.
What’s worth noting is that the Ultra-Chron Carbon also reflects a strategic move by Longines to incorporate more contemporary materials while maintaining classic aesthetics. This leads to a visually stunning watch that, while rooted in the past, embraces the now.
One controversial feature, however, is the fixed bezel. Compared to the rotating bezel found on the steel variant, this design choice has raised eyebrows. Many enthusiasts appreciate the functionality of elapsed time bezels, especially useful for a dive watch.
Ultimately, with a price jump of over $1,500 compared to the steel Ultra-Chron, the decision to invest in this carbon and titanium marvel hinges on individual preferences. High-frequency movements remain somewhat rare in the sub-$5,000 market, making this offering a serious contender for collectors and casual wearers alike.
With the introduction of the Ultra-Chron Carbon, Longines significantly enhances its reputation within the Swatch Group. As the brand continues to provide an impressive array of complications and innovative movements, this sporty timepiece solidifies its position as one of Longines’ most compelling offerings to date. Will this be the watch that sets a new benchmark in the world of sports watches? Time will tell!