Introduction

For watch enthusiasts and collectors, understanding the complexities of a perpetual calendar (QP) is essential. These sophisticated timepieces meticulously track the passage of not just hours and days, but also weeks, months, and even moon phases—accurately reflecting the Gregorian calendar until the year 2100. This is notable because, during that year, a unique non-leap year exception means that the absence of February 29 will require a manual adjustment to transition correctly from February to March. However, prolonged inactivity can lead to complications, resulting in the perpetual calendar becoming out of sync. Such scenarios necessitate tedious corrections with specific tools, making user-friendly adjustments crucial in this luxury segment.

Audemars Piguet: Redefining Perpetual Calendars

Audemars Piguet is at the forefront of innovation in this domain, recently unveiling the caliber 7138, which heralds a transformative leap from the previous caliber 5135. This new movement, first introduced in 2019, features a pioneering “all-at-the-crown” mechanism that simplifies adjustments—dramatically changing the user experience.

After five years of meticulous research and engineering led by design visionary Giulio Papi, the caliber 7138 incorporates groundbreaking innovations from their RD#2 model, offering enhanced functionality for discerning users.

This cutting-edge caliber powers three stunning new offerings: a limited-edition Code 11.59 crafted from white gold with an enchanting celestial blue smoked dial, alongside two 41mm Royal Oak models—one in luxurious Sand Gold and the other in robust stainless steel. These exquisite models commemorate Audemars Piguet's 150th anniversary, with only 150 pieces made available, each featuring a vintage-style "Audemars Piguet" signature and special commemorative engravings on the case back.

Unlocking Complexity in a Seamless Design

What sets the caliber 7138 apart is its innovative “all-at-the-crown” system. This user-centric feature allows watch owners to make all necessary settings with just three crown positions. Notably, position 2 offers a fascinating dual function; its behavior shifts based on the crown's direction of movement. A representative from Audemars Piguet aptly likened it to an elevator stopping at the second floor, with different doors opening depending on whether the elevator ascends or descends.

Moreover, in this ingenious position 2, users can adjust different settings based on whether they turn the crown clockwise or counterclockwise. This level of design sophistication ensures that adjustments remain simple and error-free.

For optimum adjustment safety, the system incorporates a red indicator marking a "no-correction zone" between 9 PM and 3 AM, safeguarding users from potentially damaging adjustments during those hours.

A Legacy of Innovation: The Rich History of Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet has enjoyed a storied relationship with the perpetual calendar for over a century. Their journey began in 1899 with the Universelle pocket watch, showcasing an astonishing 19 complications, including a perpetual calendar. The brand continued to innovate, launching the first wristwatch with a leap year indicator in 1955, and during the quartz crisis of 1978, it stunned the watchmaking community by introducing the ultra-thin caliber 2120/2800—a remarkable automatic perpetual calendar movement.

This engineering marvel not only revitalized interest in traditional watch complications but also solidified Audemars Piguet's role as a leader in horological innovation. Subsequent advancements have included the modernization of the skeletonized chronograph in 1980, the first automatic tourbillon in 1986, a minute repeater in 1992, and the Grande Complication in 1996.

In a world where time is a precious commodity, Audemars Piguet’s perpetual calendar watches continue to represent the pinnacle of craftsmanship and innovation—putting the power of precision right at your fingertips.