Celebrating 85 Years of Elegance

Last year, IWC Schaffhausen marked the 85th anniversary of a true horological icon: the Portugieser collection. Born in the late 1930s from a special request by Portuguese wholesalers Rodrigues and Teixeira, the ambition was straightforward yet bold—craft a wristwatch mirroring the precision of a marine chronometer. This desire birthed the original Reference 325, igniting a legacy that continues to captivate watch enthusiasts today.

A Historic Launch—From Ukraine to Portugal

Interestingly, when the watch first hit the scene, it wasn't even called the Portugieser. Initially catalogued under Mod. 228, its first shipment was to Odessa, Ukraine in February 1939. It wasn’t until 1942 that the timepieces made their way into Portugal, initially marked under their case designation until the name Reference 325 was adopted. The impact of global conflicts also influenced sales, with many of these exquisite watches directed to Eastern Europe during World War II.

Craftsmanship Through the Ages

Between 1939 and 1981, IWC produced a mere 690 examples of the Reference 325, with only 141 reaching Portuguese shores. Each unique piece bore a hallmark mandated by Portuguese customs, offering a touch of history to collectors today. The early models showcased sleek designs, but it was the introduction of the Calibre movements—specifically Calibre 74 followed by Calibre 98—that truly demonstrated IWC's commitment to innovation and precision.

Revivals and Innovations: A New Era Begins

The revival of the Portugieser in the 1990s marked a transformative era for IWC. The 125th anniversary of the brand in 1993 unleashed the Portugieser Reference 5441, a Jubilee edition that echoed the classic designs while setting the tone for modern watchmaking. With over 1,700 limited pieces, it quickly became a collector's favorite and reignited interest in the entire collection.

Technical Marvels: From the Minute Repeater to Chronographs

The introduction of the Portugieser Minute Repeater Ref. 5240 in 1995 and the Chronograph Rattrapante Ref. 3712 the same year showcased IWC's relentless pursuit of horological complexities. These models capitalized on advanced mechanisms and daring designs that combined elegance with technical mastery—setting the stage for the future.

New Heights: The Grande Complication and Beyond

By 2010, the Portugieser Grande Complication Ref. 3774 incorporated a remarkable 20 functions, solidifying IWC’s status in the world of high horology. Yet, the pièce de résistance was the Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia, released in 2011—a testament to IWC’s prowess in bespoke watchmaking, tailored uniquely to individual owners.

The Modern Era: A Collection Reinvented

In recent years, the Portugieser collection has undergone a pivotal transformation, with models like the 2020 Automatic 40 and Chronograph Ref. IW3716 embracing updated aesthetics while remaining anchored in the collection's rich heritage. Meanwhile, the introduction of the Eternal Calendar in 2024 marked a milestone, offering a perpetual calendar mechanism that intelligently adapts to the Gregorian calendar without needing adjustments until the year 3999.

A Legacy of Mastery and Innovation

With a current lineup of 58 references, the Portugieser stands as a canvas for IWC's historic, present, and future innovations. This collection traverses the spectrum from simple elegance to grand complications, all while maintaining a design ethos rooted in clarity and precision. As the ultimate representation of IWC's craftsmanship, the Portugieser continues to be not just a watch, but a statement of horological artistry—one that began with a simple request and blossoms into a world of luxury and technical sophistication.