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Rediscovering the Hakka Heritage: A Chef’s Culinary Quest to Find Identity Through Food

2025-07-16

Author: Wei

Meet Chef Leow Shi Chao, a 29-year-old culinary visionary from Singapore who embarked on a remarkable journey to rediscover his ancestral roots through food. It all began at age 26 when he had his first taste of Hakka cuisine—an experience that left him unimpressed but ignited a curiosity and determination to explore the neglected culinary heritage of his ancestors.

From Fine Dining to Cultural Exploration

Growing up away from his biological family, Chef Leow was immersed in Hinghwa cuisine instead of Hakka dishes. His culinary journey took shape at the now-closed Pollen, where he honed his skills under renowned chefs like Gianni D’Amato and Joris Bijdendijk. A pivotal moment came during a summer job in the UK when he realized his culinary creations lacked a narrative, prompting the question: 'What does my culinary identity really entail?'

The Birth of 'The Lost Hakka'

Determined to carve out his cultural identity, Leow launched 'The Lost Hakka'—a personal quest to explore and revitalize Hakka cuisine. It was during a meal with relatives that he felt a deep disappointment in the Hakka food they ordered—a realization that drove him to delve deeper into his culinary heritage.

A Culinary Pilgrimage

Leow's dedication led him to Plum Village, a Singaporean restaurant specializing in Hakka dishes. There, he learned the age-old techniques and flavors of Hakka cuisine from veteran chef Lai Fak Nian. His mission didn’t stop at just the restaurant; Leow explored clan associations in Singapore, Malaysia, and beyond, attending cultural events and even planning an expedition to Guangdong, China, to trace his family lineage.

Building Community Through Cooking

Leow has also formed the Hakka Cooking Group, where eager young cooks gather to prepare traditional dishes. This vibrant community has exceeded his expectations, cultivating a spirit of collaboration and learning that transforms cooking into a shared experience.

A Gourmet Collaboration and Future Aspirations

This coming July, Chef Leow will showcase his culinary skills at a collaboration dinner with Chef Ian Tan, featuring Hakka classics like Salt-cooked Chicken and Thunder Tea Rice. His continuous learning journey has not only enriched his cooking abilities but also fostered new friendships and connections in the culinary world.

Heritage on a Plate

For Leow, food is the key to exploring identity. He emphasizes that each Hakka dish tells a story and celebrates the unique flavors that make up their culture. He carefully crafts dishes like Yellow Wine Chicken, sourcing high-quality ingredients that respect the integrity of traditional flavors.

The Quest for Knowledge

Driven by a desire to preserve Hakka heritage, Leow envisions writing a book that intertwines food, history, and culture. To him, this endeavor is not merely about earning a living but about a deeper connection to his roots. He finds satisfaction in understanding his culture and hopes to inspire others along the way.

"This journey has sparked a curiosity in me that spills over into every aspect of my life," Leow says. "I may not know where it will lead me, but the process itself has brought joy and purpose. I’m simply a guest—continuously discovering the beauty of my Hakka heritage through food."