Boxing Day, 2004 - a date that remains etched in history as one of the most catastrophic days the world has ever witnessed. I was on a ferry, just a stone's throw from the beautiful shores of Havelock Island in the Andaman and Nicobar archipelago when fate took a deadly turn.

The morning had begun like a dream. My best friend from college, who had made Port Blair her home for over fifteen years, had planned for us to experience the stunning Radhanagar Beach, newly dubbed “Asia's Best Beach” by Time magazine. Eager to soak in the golden sands and crystal-clear waters, we set off early, giddy with excitement. However, our adventure quickly spiraled into a nightmare.

As we pulled away from the Phoenix Bay jetty, disaster struck. The ground trembled violently beneath us, dislodging the jetty and watchtower adjacent to us, sending them crashing into the sea. Those on board, mostly tourists ready for a joyful holiday, were left dumbfounded, staring at the unfolding chaos. A crew member warned us it was an earthquake — but we had no idea just how devastating it truly was.

The 9.1 magnitude earthquake, known as one of history's most powerful seismic events, caused a massive tsunami that would go on to wreak havoc across several nations, claiming an estimated 228,000 lives. Just 100 kilometers north of the quake's epicenter, the Andaman and Nicobar Islands would soon bear the brunt of the disaster. Waves as high as 15 meters would crash onto its shores, marking a tragic chapter in the islands' history.

As we sailed through the rough waters back toward Port Blair, communication was minimal. Our mobile phones were useless, offering no news of the horrors unfolding around us — information trickled in from the crew about devastation in places like Sri Lanka and Thailand, but our fate remained shrouded in uncertainty. It wasn't until we landed that we were faced with the grim reality of our surroundings.

Port Blair was unrecognizable. Rubble replaced buildings, upturned boats littered the streets, and entire communities had been displaced. I remember meeting a nine-year-old girl who had nearly drowned in her own home. There were stories of lost lives and possessions; a woman wept as she recounted the loss of everything she had ever owned within mere moments.

Over three weeks, I documented the aftermath, capturing the resilience of the islanders amidst the heartbreak. Water sources were contaminated, and farmland lay destroyed. Recovery efforts, involving the army, navy, and air force, were underway but struggled to meet the overwhelming need for relief due to damage to the region's jetties.

Survivors told harrowing tales. One mother spoke of her miraculous survival in Car Nicobar amidst rising waters. Her account of being stranded for days without essentials was one of many that reflected both despair and fortitude. As Port Blair became a temporary refuge for those displaced, it was a heart-wrenching scene: families torn apart and individuals grappling with unbearable loss.

Visiting the devastated Car Nicobar a few days later revealed the full extent of the tragedy. The air force base, a bustling center of activity, lay in ruins. Lives lost were mourned quietly as community members came together in their grief. Each story was a reminder of what had been, and the resilient spirit of the islanders began to shine through even in the darkest moments.

Years have passed since that fateful day, yet the vivid images from December 26, 2004, haunt me. The 'what-ifs' linger — what if I had been on the jetty when the tsunami struck? What if I hadn’t opted to stand on the ferry’s front deck,, thereby avoiding the worst? While I escaped relatively unscathed, the pain of countless others affected by that disaster remains palpable.

The scars of the tsunami may heal in time, but the memories and lessons learned from that tragic day will forever remain. As we reflect on the heroism and resilience shown in the face of one of nature's deadliest forces, we must never forget those who were not as fortunate. The Andaman and Nicobar Islands are a testament to survival and strength, enduring against all odds.