Surfing in Hong Kong: The Untold Struggles and Hidden Gems of a Unique Scene

In the bustling world of surfing, few places are as underestimated as Hong Kong, where wave conditions can often be less than ideal. Emerging surfer Henry Hurren, 32, recently faced challenging waters off Tung Lung Chau, a largely uninhabited island. Despite the turbulent waves, Hurren valiantly attempted to ride the quick, slab-like waves found in this unique locale, proving that even in a city where surfing isn't the primary sport, passionate surfers are willing to brave the elements for a few fleeting seconds of exhilaration.

Hurren's journey began with a half-hour ferry ride filled with day-trippers flocking to enjoy the sunny day, a sharp contrast to the solitude he would later find in the water. Clad in a wetsuit, he hiked to his chosen surf spot, illustrating how determination often supersedes the lack of accommodating surfing conditions.

The wave off Tung Lung Chau is notorious among experienced surfers, breaking sharply over rocks—it’s not the smooth ride you might expect from more famous surfing destinations like Bali. For Hurren, this wave represents a hyper-concentrated version of surfing, pushing him to test his skills in a landscape more suited to seasoned adventurers. “Many surfers shy away from slabs; they demand respect and caution,” he explained, thus shedding light on the grit required for Hong Kong's surfing scene.

Hong Kong has a surf culture that’s concentrated at a few key beaches, where consistent waves seem like a dream. This territory, home to over 250 islands, has surf spots that are surprisingly accessible to its 7.5 million inhabitants. However, this doesn’t come without challenges; the beaches often host swimmers and paddle boarders, resulting in crowded conditions that sometimes lead to friction. Recently, local authorities have started enforcing restrictions on surfing to alleviate safety concerns.

Interestingly, a nearby surf shop felt compelled to address etiquette amongst surfers, creating a colorful safety sign that humorously highlights what happens when things go wrong—a nod to the playful yet serious nature of surf culture in Hong Kong.

Hurren, who first surfed in the local waters at the tender age of five, acknowledges that the surf spots can be daunting, particularly for newcomers. Finding additional surfing locations away from the crowded beaches has become a mission, leading him to discover up to a dozen spots that cater to various skill levels.

For Mavis Lai, 41, surfing wasn’t even on her radar growing up in Hong Kong, but it has since become a central part of her life. After moving to London and attending a surf camp in the Canary Islands, Lai returned to Hong Kong in 2015, eventually taking on the roles of both surf coach and sports therapist. She humorously recalls the stark contrast in wave quality between Hong Kong and locations like Thailand, admitting, “Maybe in Hong Kong we have the worst conditions ever,” while still making the most of her time on the water.

In winter, the primary surf season at Big Wave Bay, she dedicates herself to the sport, training diligently and adjusting her professional commitments around wave forecasts. Such dedication illustrates the true spirit of Hong Kong surfers who manage to thrive in less-than-ideal conditions.

An emerging trend has seen some Hong Kong surfers venturing across the border to Guangdong province, where wave conditions are generally better. Clark Wang, who runs a surf hostel in Shanwei, noted a noticeable uptick in Hong Kong surfers making the trip, with estimates suggesting they now comprise about 25% of the local surf population.

Rohan Rajpal, 27, a tech professional, frequently alternates surfing between Big Wave Bay and Shanwei, appreciating both the thrill of the waves and the finer water conditions found back in his home city.

As the landscape of surfing in Hong Kong continues to develop, these surfers are not just chasing waves; they are cultivating a vibrant community. With their dedication and enthusiasm, they demonstrate that even in challenging circumstances, a love for the ocean can unite and inspire individuals to seek new horizons.