Dallas chef John Tesar, a veteran of the culinary world with 50 years of experience, maintains that a certain level of "craziness" is essential for anyone entering the restaurant business. He’s certainly demonstrated his commitment to the craft, having spent 16 years in the Dallas dining scene and with accolades from his time in high-end kitchens in Paris and New York.

Tesar's restaurant, Knife, along with his newer location Knife Italian, both missed out on Michelin recognition during Texas's inaugural ceremony in November 2024. Despite previously earning a Michelin star for Knife & Spoon in Orlando in 2022, which he subsequently lost, Tesar remains relentless in his pursuit of culinary excellence.

"I'm on a mission to reclaim my star and earn new ones here in Texas," Tesar passionately declared. He aims to reinvent his dining establishments and sees the Michelin Guide as a critical catalyst in this transformation.

In a telling interview with the Dallas Morning News, Tesar shared insights into why he believes Dallas's dining scene could have fared better in the awards. He noted that only one restaurant in Dallas received a Michelin star—Tatsu Dallas under chef-owner Tatsuya Sekiguchi. Tesar expressed his admiration for Sekiguchi but held back in asserting that more restaurants in Dallas deserved recognition this year.

He pointed out that while he expected at least one or two Japanese eateries, like Tei-An, to gain accolades, the recognition did not materialize. Even the unusual recognition granted to four BBQ spots across Texas puzzled him, as it seemed like Michelin had carved out a special acknowledgment space for barbecue.

“Barbecue is a massive part of Texas culture, and I'm glad it’s getting attention,” Tesar said, “but it feels like they are trying to cater to tourists rather than showcasing the full depth of Dallas cuisine.”

Tesar emphasized that while there are 20 Dallas restaurants listed as "Recommended" by Michelin, the city must elevate its standards to secure high-quality dining experiences that can compete on a Michelin level in the future. “You're now part of their map, but you need to keep going further,” he advised restaurant owners, hinting that complacency would not stand the test of time.

With notable chefs like RJ Yoakum, Teiichi Sakurai, and Peja Krstic, Tesar acknowledged the wealth of talent in Dallas, stating, “There’s so much culinary talent that it's hard to keep track, but we need to channel that better.”

Interestingly, Tesar pointed out gaps in Michelin’s Texas list, particularly the absence of steakhouses and Tex-Mex cuisine. Both he and Texas Monthly’s taco editor, Jose Ralat, questioned whether Michelin adequately understands and appreciates Tex-Mex dining. Michelin officials clarified that they assess Tex-Mex and Mexican dishes as distinct categories, both significant to Texas’s culinary heritage.

As for the forever debated topic of why there are no 2- or 3-star Michelin restaurants in Dallas-Fort Worth, Tesar is frank: “The reality is, we just don’t have it yet,” he noted, reassuring that while some establishments have approached that level, the consistency and standards must improve to reach such heights.

When asked about the merit of the Michelin Guide itself, Tesar stated, "It's just a guide. It doesn't define greatness but indicates that you’re doing something worthy of recognition."

To boost his chances for the next round, Tesar plans a strategic renovation of Knife in early 2025. This revamp includes a new menu with a focus on seafood and a fresh restaurant concept featuring a "meat omakase." He described this new offering as a unique and tailored carnivore’s dream—perfect for attracting attention from Michelin inspectors.

“I will work tirelessly to impress them next time,” Tesar stated, revealing his willingness to evolve and reaffirm the market's competitiveness.

In a culinary city with so much potential, Tesar's candid assessment and ambitious plans could spark a new chapter for Dallas's gastronomical reputation, making it a focal point for food lovers everywhere. Watch out Michelin—you may just see a different Dallas dining scene when it comes to the next round of awards!