André Soltner, Legendary Chef of New York's Lutèce, Passes Away at 92
2025-01-18
Author: Lok
André Soltner, the esteemed chef whose dedication to classic French cooking transformed Lutèce into one of America’s premier dining destinations, passed away on Saturday morning in Charlottesville, Virginia, at the age of 92. The news of his death was confirmed by his attorney and close friend, Glenn W. Dopf.
Soltner began his remarkable culinary journey at Lutèce on its opening day, February 16, 1961, and served there for an impressive 33 years. As a partner and eventually the sole proprietor, he curated a menu that artfully combined haute cuisine with the comforting flavors of his native Alsace, creating an intimate dining experience infused with his personal touch.
Lutèce was regarded as a luxurious bistro, a haven where culinary excellence met warm hospitality. His wife, Simone, was a pivotal figure in the restaurant, greeting guests and managing the checks while André seamlessly blended into the dining room, engaging with patrons and guiding them through the menu. Regular diners often entrusted their meal selections entirely to him, highlighting his deep understanding of their preferences.
In a time when fresh produce was not easily accessible, Soltner ensured that only the finest ingredients graced his kitchen. He sourced Dover sole, Scottish salmon, and Mediterranean rouget, personally negotiating with farmers for shallots and girolle mushrooms. His commitment to impeccable ingredients and flawless technique not only drew diners but also garnered rave reviews from critics.
In 2008, acclaimed food critic Gael Greene listed Lutèce as the most influential restaurant of the preceding four decades in New York, heralding it as the benchmark for French dining in America. She described Soltner as “the best French chef in New York,” praising his combination of classical training and innovation in the kitchen.
Despite the accolades, Soltner remained humble, often downplaying his status in the culinary world. "Basically, I am a cook," he stated in a 1987 interview, emphasizing the importance of dedication over celebrity.
Born on November 20, 1932, in Thann, Alsace, Soltner's culinary journey began at an early age, inspired by his mother, Eugenie. By 13, he was already preparing meals for his family. Following his apprenticeship at Hô tel du Parc, Soltner rapidly climbed the ranks, becoming executive chef at Chez Hansi in Paris by the age of 27, where he met his future wife, Simone Gomez.
The path that led him to New York was paved by André Surmain, who sought to create what he envisioned as the world's finest restaurant. Lutèce, named after the ancient term for Paris, opened to a lukewarm reception but quickly gained acclaim once Soltner took full control in 1973 after acquiring Surmain's shares. He transformed the restaurant into a beloved establishment, known for its elegant yet approachable atmosphere.
Classic dishes like filet mignon in brioche, onion tart, and roast duck became signature offerings, representing Mr. Soltner's belief that chefs should uphold traditional methods while also evolving their cooking over time. Even as culinary fads came and went, Lutèce remained a sanctuary for those seeking timeless dining.
In 1994, Soltner passed on the torch, selling Lutèce to Ark Restaurants, and transitioned to a new role as the dean of classic studies at the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan. He authored "The Lutèce Cookbook" with Seymour Britchky, ensuring that his culinary legacy would continue to influence aspiring chefs.
Lutèce ultimately closed its doors in 2004, a heartbreaking farewell for Soltner, who had nurtured the restaurant for over three decades. He continued to live in Manhattan, with residences in Hunter Mountain, New York, and Cannes, France.
Throughout his career, André Soltner declined numerous offers to expand into other restaurants or chains, choosing to focus on preserving the integrity of Lutèce, which many revered as a culinary gem.
He leaves behind his partner of eight years, Maryvonne Gasparini, and his sister, Marie Rose Vandevoorde. His contributions to the culinary landscape remain indelible, a testament to a life dedicated to the art of French cooking.
As the world of gastronomy mourns the loss of a true icon, the legacy of André Soltner will continue to inspire chefs and food lovers for generations to come.